Well it took me 2 1/2 years - 720 hours.... but finally I finished my 'Nancy's China'. I have not changed much of Sam's design. The hull is exactly as per the drawings, however, the cockpit area has a deck surround with a 5" high cockpit rail plus rail cap made as a continuation of the cabin.

This boat has cabin doors (a lot of work - but nice) , sliding hatch (classic big boat type - also a lot of work, but nice), whale gusher pump (with 'foot' under the cockpit sole) plus piping connecting space under cabin sole to space under cockpit sole- should water get into the cabin, high mast collar, toe rails and caps, spinnaker gear, genoa, aluminum mast / boom with internal halyards, lifting rudder, battery (under rear deck), solar panel, running lights, tiller pilot, furler (my design allows for a fixed forestay and zipper luff on genoa), 2 compasses, bridge over sliding hatch for spinnaker and outhaul jam cleats, traveler bridge with Harken traveler, GPS, marine radio, genoa track, knot meter; brass windows, winches for genoa, all safety equipment and more.

Inside there is a clock, barometer, 4" color TV, racks on inside mounted on bulkheads and cabin sides, interior lights, 3" custom cushions (white marine vinyl with blue piping / buttons) , anchor / line mounted under forward cabin sole compartment, snubbing winch for main halyard mounted on dagger board box (both genoa and main halyards come out at bottom of mast inside the boat and lead to the dagger board box just behind the doors, lead sealed in bags of 25# mounted in waterproof sealed compartments under cabin sole - with access hatches....... and more.

The aluminum mast for my Nancy's China is 22' in length and although fairly light, it proved difficult for me to lift into place vertically. I decided a 'gin pole' was required for me to 'step' the mast.

I drilled a hole in the deck just forward of the mast collar (photo 1) with a diameter that allows the gin pole snug entry. I installed a stainless fitting so the the hole can be capped when not in use. A block of wood, with corresponding hole drilled out, is mounted on the mast step and allows the gin pole to be 'seated'. The gin pole itself is sections of tubing, each about 40" long, that slide together. They are basically used a mast sections for rigs on sailing kayaks and are available from Chesapeake Light Craft. Other types of easily obtainable tubing would also suffice for the pole. There is a small cleat mounted on the mast for tying the lift line as required. I hooked up a block and tackle system using some old blocks from previous boats I have owned. There are two support lines running from the top of the gin pole which I have tied fore and aft to the frame of the trailer (photos 2 and 3) on the starboard side of the boat. The tubing for the pole is thin and the lines are used as a precautionary measure. These lines are not in the way of the mast being pulled up on the port side of the boat.

Stepping the mast: the whole operation from putting the tubes together to stepping the mast takes about six minutes. A rope 'bridle is placed around the mast below the spreaders and hooked to the lower lift line block. Them the mast is hoisted into vertical position. I next allow the mast down until it touches the aluminum mast foot. I then go down into the cabin and pull the mast over the foot, returning to the deck and allowing it to drop down completely with a reassuring thud.

Again using the gin pole, the mast comes out quickly and easily. The gin pole works perfectly and I can now step and unstep the mast without any help.... and do so safely. The cost to build it was negligible as I had all of the components.

Dave Wagner